Southern Mozambique

Southern Mozambique - The Bazaruto Archipelago

The Islands

Africa’s version of the famed Galápagos Islands, the Bazaruto Archipelago and surrounding marine environment is a complex and unique ecosystem, well protected by its isolation. Harbouring one of the last viable populations of dugong along the entire East African coast, the Bazarutos command some of the most pristine coral reefs in the Indian Ocean. In descending order of size, Bazaruto, Benguerra, Magaruque, Santa Carolina (also known as Paradise Island) and tiny undeveloped Bangué Island each have their own charm and character. Amid the turquoise shallows surrounding each island, in the tidal inlets and shaded sea pastures opening into the deep Mozambique Channel, a wealth of marine life exists. For conservationists the uniqueness of this archipelago lies in its fragile diversity.

Wildlife ranges from migrant bird species, frigate birds and falcons to crocodiles lurking in the brackish inland lakes. At least five species of turtle have their breeding ground here, while various antelope, rodents, lizards and snakes inhabit the massive mobile sand dunes and adjacent scrubland. For the moment, only part of Bazaruto, Benguerra and a narrow strip of adjacent sea have been designated as a national park but it is hoped that co-operation between the WWF International, Endangered Wildlife Trust, Southern African Nature Foundation, International Wilderness Leadership Foundation and Lodge and Hotel owners will lead to a sound conservation management policy, uniting all the islands under the protection of a greater ‘Parque Nacional do Arquipélago do Bazaruto’.

ILHA DE BENGUERRA 

Since Benguerra is blessed with the most intact area of indigenous dune forest of all the islands, it probably offers the best birding as well. Crocodiles, which must already have been resident when the island separated from the mainland several thousand years ago, also populate freshwater lakes, surrounded by stunning golden dunes. Apart from the shelters of a great many migratory fisher folk who use Benguerra as a seasonal stopover, there are the comfortable Benguerra Island and Marlin Lodges, as well as a convenient 800m-long (875yd) grass airstrip.

ILHA DO BAZARUTO 

About 30km (18 miles) long and some 3km (2 miles) at its widest, Bazaruto is the biggest island in the archipelago. Parallel with the mainland, on its northern point where the Farol do Bazaruto (lighthouse) still flashes its signal out to sea, there is top-class tourist accommodation in the form of the Bazaruto Lodge and Indigo Bay Hotel. The island is served by a grass airstrip near the Lodge and a new tarmac strip next to Indigo Bay capable of handling twin-engined aircraft. In the event of the strips being dangerous to use (which sometimes happens during the rare thunderstorms), you would land in Vilankulo and be transferred to your destination by boat. You will have to beach some distance from the lodge if you don’t happen to arrive at high tide, but will be taken to the lodge by Land Rover.

ILHA DA SANTA CAROLINAI (Paradise Island)

Pérola do Indico (‘Pearl of the Indian Ocean’) the Portuguese called it, but it will always be just Paradise Island to those who have enjoyed its isolation. About 3km (2 miles) long and roughly 500m (547yd) wide, from the air the tiny island resembles an athletics track. The 100-room hotel was derelict for decades, but the ever-optimistic staff sometimes offer visiting yachts people a meal on the veranda, and talk of a time when their padrão, or former Portuguese boss, would finally return. The most recent developments on Paradise involved the partial restoration of the hotel annex, but visitors should expect nothing and be fully supplied down to drinking water. Visitors can arrange to arrive by boat from Vilankulo or Inhassoro.

ILHA DE MAGARUQUE

Circumnavigating Magaruque on foot is a leisurely threehour stroll along deserted white beaches. The ambience of the island is relaxed and intimate. Magaruque has the advantages of a paved airstrip, superb snorkelling or scuba diving on a coral reef just a short swim from the front of the hotel, and ease of access from the mainland. Transfers in ski-boats to and from Vilankulo are available by prior arrangement, and there are always dhow rides for the adventurous.

ISLAND FISHING

Bazaruto Island, as well as Benguerra and Magaruque, are attracting increasing numbers of saltwater fly fishermen (and women); the sight of someone standing etched against a golden sunrise, gracefully casting their line out over the waves, is a vision as ancient as the sand itself. Crossbars on which catches of the day could be hung up, weighed and photographed once formed a focal point of the island experience but are rarely used nowadays. Today’s environmentally friendly fishers prefer to weigh, photograph and tag their trophies before releasing them alive and kicking back into the blue. Conservation and rehabilitation of the environment is uppermost in the minds of lodge owners and management, who are campaigning to have the archipelago declared a World Heritage Site. Of added interest to nature lovers are the southern lakes, which are inhabited by freshwater crocodiles and a few elusive species of endemic butterfly.