Zambia

Zambia - wild Africa at its finest

With an area of around 752,617km2 (290,587 sq miles), Zambia covers just 2.5 per cent of the African continent. It is, nevertheless, a vast country dominated by a great plateau cleaved by two major valleys – the Zambezi and Luangwa. Numerous rivers scratch its surface, oozing across seasonal flood plains or cascading over magnificent waterfalls. Lakes, both man-made and ancient, languish in valleys and depressions, while Zambia’s extremes range from high, windswept grassland to hot, sultry swamp.

Highlands and Valleys
Zambia reaches its most lofty in the highlands of the Nyika Plateau which rises in the northeast of the country and extends into Malawi. Offering cool respite from the valleys (particularly in the stifling build-up to the rains), Nyika soars to over 2600m (8530ft). The plateau covering much of the rest of Zambia lies at less than half this altitude. Gently undulating, with only an occasional cluster of hills, it is composed of sediments forged up to 1000 million years ago. These antiquated rocks are a major source of Zambia’s wealth – particularly in the mineralrich Copperbelt region stretching northwest from Lusaka. Towards the south of the country and in the far north, the plateau dips abruptly into broad rift valleys hemmed in by spectacular escarpments. Over the aeons, these fractures in the earth’s crust have filled with mighty rivers and impressive lakes.

Lakes and Rivers
Although much of Lake Tanganyika lies outside Zambia, this ‘inland sea’ of the Great Rift Valley nicks the country’s northern border. After Lake Baikal in Siberia, Tanganyika reaches the greatest depth of any lake at 1433m (4702ft). Like nearby Lake Mweru, its waters teem with fish, providing a valuable source of protein for local communities. A natural template for Zambia’s border with Zimbabwe, the Zambezi River is Africa’s fourth longest at 2650km (1650 miles). Its course from northwest Zambia to the Indian Ocean scrawls a giant question mark across southern Africa, but no one can be left in any doubt as to the beauty and importance of this stately river. From the tempestuous cataracts of Victoria Falls to the restrained placidity of Lake Kariba, the Zambezi has many moods. To a large extent, the characters of all Zambia’s rivers are influenced by seasonal extremes. Nourished by a veinlike network of tributaries, the Luangwa River and Kafue River pulse and subside in time to flood and drought. Just as the rivers themselves change throughout the year, so too do the plains and wetlands that surround them.

Swamps and Plains
Every wet season the Zambezi River inundates the Barotse Flood Plains of Western Zambia, triggering the annual migration of the Lozi people to higher ground. The transformation is no less remarkable on the Kafue Flats or Busanga Plains of the Kafue River where flooded grasslands become inaccessible for half the year – unless you happen to be one of the plethora of water birds or semi-aquatic antelope that thrive in these seasonal wetlands. Zambia’s greatest waterworld, however, sprawls across a shallow basin in the remote northeast. The Bangweulu Wetlands combine lake, river, swamp and plain to create a haven for some of the country’s rarest wildlife, including the sitatunga antelope and shoebill stork.

Flora and Fauna

THE PLANT LIFE

Zambia’s vegetation forms a patchwork of grassland, woodland and swamp. Within these broad categories are numerous distinct plant communities, the most dominant of which is miombo woodland. Covering nearly threequarters of Zambia, this deciduous woodland thrives on the generally poor, acid soils of the plateau. One of its distinctive trees is Brachystegia which produces rich, autumnal colours in early spring (September) before the new leaves gradually turn yellow and then green. Confined mainly to the valleys, mopane woodland makes pleasant walking country. Not only does it offer shade, but the leaves and pods of the mopane tree attract browsing animals, such as elephant and giraffe. Other types of tree communities to be found in Zambia include lush riverine woodland – a tangle of wild gardenia, strangler fig, sausage tree, ebony and mahogany often found along watercourses. Permanent areas of swamp, like those found in the Bangweulu Wetlands, run riot with aquatic plants like water lilies, papyrus grass and phragmites reed. Flood plains, on the other hand, have little more than grasses which are able to cope with both the seasonal inundation of water and the intensive grazing pressure of large herds of animals.

THE WILDLIFE

Part of the special appeal of a Zambian safari lies in the variety of wildlife-viewing options (game drives in open vehicles, night drives, walking safaris, canoe trips, etc) and the excellent range of national parks. Very quickly, you will be totting up an impressive list of the more common large mammals and birds – and if you’re lucky, one or two rarities.

The Big Five
Lion, leopard, elephant, rhino and buffalo. Everyone hopes to see the ‘big five’ and in Zambia you stand an excellent chance. Only rhino will elude you, unless you visit Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park where a small group of white rhino is protected. Black rhino, eradicated from Zambia by poachers during the 1970s and 1980s, were reintroduced to North Luangwa National Park in 2003. The lion, Africa’s largest predator, is still common throughout Zambia, particularly in the larger national parks. This sociable cat lives in prides dominated by one or two males, but it’s the lionesses that do most of the hunting. Lions have been known to kill anything from tortoises to baby elephants. They are most active at night – a time when you are most likely to hear the evocative guttural roar of a lion proclaiming his territory. The leopard is a solitary nocturnal hunter, relying on cover and stealth to ambush prey. South Luangwa National Park, riddled with patchy woodland and twisting waterways, suits this beautiful spotted cat perfectly. Night drives here have become renowned for leopard sightings. Zambia is a stronghold for the elephant with over 15,000 occurring in the Luangwa Valley alone. Lower Zambezi National Park is also an excellent place to observe them. Intelligent and social, elephants form closely bonded herds led by the eldest female or matriarch. Adult males, which can weigh up to 6000kg (13,230lb), form separate bachelor groups. The buffalo is another sociable beast. North Luangwa, in particular, supports large herds of these generally peaceful grazers. Despite being labelled as grumpy and aggressive, it is usually only solitary old bulls that you need to be wary of.

Antelopes
Zambia has a wonderful range of antelopes – due largely to the fact that these elegant creatures have diversified to fill every imaginable habitat. In Zambia, there are two extremes – the amphibious, swamp-dwelling sitatunga and the nimble klipspringer of rocky slopes. In between are species more associated with woodland and plain. Two of the most commonly encountered are impala and puku which form large herds in the Luangwa Valley and Busanga Plains respectively. Both of these graceful antelope, with their chestnut coats and lyre-shaped horns, are similar in appearance to lechwe – a species adapted to life on seasonal flood plains. There are three varieties in Zambia (red, Kafue and black), each of them are largely confined to a particular wetland area. Other antelope include the diminutive duiker and the stocky eland. Then there are bushbuck, reedbuck, waterbuck, steenbok and grysbok – and, of course, you should always keep an eye out for some of the more charismatic members of the family, like blue wildebeest, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, sable, roan and kudu.

Aardvark to Zebra
Don’t worry if getting to grips with antelopes makes your head spin. Fortunately, Zambia’s safari guides have a reputation for being some of the best in Africa. They will not only be able to identify any antelope on the hoof, but will know just the sort of places to look for other wildlife gems. Admittedly, aardvark may be a challenge. You may well find the burrow of this strange, termite-eating creature, but it is strictly nocturnal and rarely seen. As well as lion and leopard, cats in Zambia include cheetah and serval – beautiful, slender and spotted species best sought in Kafue National Park. The cat-like civets and genets also have distinctive markings. Despite being nocturnal, they are quite widespread and often glimpsed on night drives. Dogs are represented in Zambia by the side-striped jackal and African wild dog, the latter being a rare but exhilarating sight in Kafue, Luiwa Plain or South Luangwa. The spotted hyena (dog-like, but more closely related to civets) is more common. Zambia has its own unique subspecies of giraffe (Thornicroft’s) which is restricted to the Luangwa Valley. The hippopotamus, on the other hand, is found in rivers, lakes and swamps across the country. It is especially prolific in the Luangwa and Zambezi rivers. The mongoose and mustelid families are also well represented. They include the widespread banded mongoose and the much rarer honey badger and Cape clawless otter. Primates that you are almost guaranteed a sighting of are baboon and vervet monkey. The blue monkey is more restricted to forests in the north, while the bushbaby is a curious nocturnal primate sometimes picked out on night drives by its large eyes that glow red in torchlight. Rounding off the ‘safari A–Z’ are warthog and zebra – two favourites which are instantly identifiable and found throughout Zambia.

Bird Life
There are over 730 bird species recorded in Zambia. On safari, you will typically notice some of the larger or more colourful varieties, such as vultures, eagles, guineafowl, egrets and rollers. The key to bird-watching, however, is to visit a good range of habitats. Drive across open grassland and you may find cranes, bustards and the ground hornbill. Canoe along a river and you’ll spot kingfishers, bee-eaters and the African fish eagle. Zambia also has rarities, like the shoebill stork of the Bangweulu Wetlands, while summer visitors include the beautiful carmine bee-eater.

National Parks

Zambia has 19 national parks administered by the Zambia Wildlife Authority (which replaced the National Parks and Wildlife Service in 1999). A few of the parks are extremely remote and have no visitor facilities. All of the following, however, have camps or lodges: Lochinvar National Park is located 250km (155 miles) southwest of Lusaka and has an area of 428km2 (165 sq miles) covering the flood plains of the Kafue Flats. Highlights include over 30,000 Kafue lechwe as well as abundant bird life. Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park is located near Livingstone and has an area of 67km2 (26 sq miles). Highlights include the eastern section of Victoria Falls, spectacular gorge scenery and a well-stocked game area. Lower Zambezi National Park lies along the northern bank of the Zambezi east of Lusaka and has an area of 4092km2 (1579 sq miles). Highlights include abundant elephant, buffalo and hippo, all of which can be observed on land or by canoe. South Luangwa National Park is located in the Luangwa Valley east of Lusaka and has an area of 9050km2 (3493 sq miles). It is one of Africa’s finest reserves with abundant and varied wildlife that is best appreciated when going on a walking safari. North Luangwa National Park has an area of 4636km2 (1789 sq miles). Less visited than its southern neighbour, it offers superb wilderness walking. Kasanka National Park is located to the west of the Luangwa Valley and has an area of 390km2 (150 sq miles). It has a special hide dubbed as Africa’s best spot for watching the rare sitatunga antelope. Sumbu National Park is located on the southwest shores of Lake Tanganyika and has an area of 2020km2 (780 sq miles). It has varied game and excellent angling. Nyika Plateau National Park is located in the northeast adjacent to the Malawian Nyika National Park and has an area of 80km2 (31 sq miles). Highlights include hiking and horse riding across high plateau grassland. Kafue National Park, Zambia’s largest, is located west of Lusaka and has an area of 22,400km2 (8646 sq miles). Highlights include Busanga Plains, diverse and abundant antelope and high predator numbers. Liuwa Plain National Park is located in the far west and has an area of 3660km2 (1413 sq miles). Its extensive grasslands are the setting for one of Africa’s last undisturbed wildebeest migrations.