Victoria Falls

Victoria Falls - the smoke that thunders

Over 100m (330ft) tall, 1.7km (1 mile) in length, 550 million litres (23 million gallons) of water pouring over the edge every minute – Victoria Falls boasts impressive credentials. But nothing can prepare visitors for their first close-up view of this UNESCO World Heritage Site. Soaked by mist, the ground trembling beneath their feet, it is both humbling and exciting to walk within metres of the tempests of spray and plumes of roaring white water; the Zambezi dashed violently on basalt rocks while rainbows arch overhead. Viewing Victoria Falls is, quite simply, the experience of a lifetime.

Viewing the Falls

Viewing the Falls from both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides is straightforward and perfectly safe – as long as you don’t stray too near the edge. Islands perched on the lip of the Falls have divided them into several cataracts which, starting from the Zambian side, are Eastern Cataract, Armchair Falls, Rainbow Falls, Horseshoe Falls, Main Falls and Devil’s Cataract. When walking to the various viewpoints, remember to wear shoes with good grips (paths and steps may be slippery from the spray), take a light raincoat or poncho and pack cameras in moisture-proof bags.

The Zambian Side
Three walking routes begin near the Field Museum. The most spectacular crosses spindly Knife Edge Bridge to a panoramic viewpoint of Eastern Cataract. Another descends to the water’s edge at the Boiling Pot, a very steep climb, but worthwhile in order to witness the Zambezi squeezed into the narrow defile of Batoka Gorge. A third path leads upstream, providing glimpses of the smooth expanse of the Upper Zambezi moments before it plummets into the void. Towards the end of the dry season, a fourth option may be possible. Occasionally, the channels of the Zambezi dry out sufficiently to enable people to walk as far as Livingstone Island, where the famous explorer is believed to have first peered over the edge. Perched on the very lip of the Falls, this wooded islet provides a unique and giddy perspective. Tongabezi Lodge, located further upstream, can arrange breakfast, champagne lunch or afternoon tea and cocktails on the island between July and March.

The Zimbabwean Side
Viewing the Falls is more regulated south of the Zambezi. A fee is payable at the entrance to Victoria Falls National Park, after which you can wander the network of trails on your own. Start at the westernmost point where there is a stoic-looking statue of Dr Livingstone, inscribed with the words ‘Explorer, Missionary and Liberator’. Nearby, a steep, and often slippery, stone stairway descends through dripping vegetation into the chasm of Victoria Falls. Senses take a pummelling when you reach Cataract View at the base of the stairs, with its awesome views along the length of the Falls. Climbing back towards Livingstone’s statue, there is a choice of trails. Turn right to follow a path alongside the Zambezi where you may glimpse a variety of animals, including hippos and crocodiles. Do not be tempted to go for a swim! After around 2km (1.25 miles) the trail reaches The Big Tree, a giant baobab which once served as a camp site for early settlers waiting to cross the river to Old Drift. The left-hand path from Livingstone’s statue leads directly in front of Victoria Falls, threading through a unique rainforest sustained by the constant spray. It is a fragile ecosystem, home to rare plants, such as ebony, ivory palm, African olive, strangler fig and many types of fern. Shy bushbuck are sometimes seen here, while vigilant bird-watchers may spot Taita falcons, black storks, black eagles and augur buzzards – all of which nest in the gorges downstream. At frequent intervals, loops in the trail lead to viewpoints opposite the Falls. Don’t rush! Not only are the barriers scant or non-existent, but the spray and sunlight conditions are constantly changing, providing a beautiful sequence of rainbows and light effects. The trail ends at Danger Point, a popular place to watch the spray turn gold at sunset. Returning to the park entrance gate, a small detour leads to a clearing from which views of Victoria Falls Bridge and the screaming antics of bungee jumpers can be quite entertaining.

Activities around the Falls

‘Come to the edge – we’ll take you beyond.’ That is how one adventure tour operator tempts visitors to sample the extraordinary array of activities available at Victoria Falls. Don’t worry, however, if you find the prospect of whitewater rafting or bungee jumping anything but tempting. Activities at the Falls cater to all levels of adrenaline abuse, from a gentle sundowner cruise on the Upper Zambezi or a ride on a steam train to surfing the rapids on a body board or bungee jumping into a waiting raft – the so-called ‘gruesome twosome.’

FLIGHT OF THE ANGELS
Although some visitors bemoan the frequent buzz of helicopters and light aircraft above the Falls, this is still the best way to fully appreciate their awesome scale. A breathtaking aerial perspective of Victoria Falls can be achieved in a number of ways. The most novel perhaps is to fly above them in a vintage de Havilland Tiger Moth biplane with open cockpits. An alternative that doesn’t involve a noisy engine is to bale out of a plane with a parachute. If that sounds a little extreme, however, there are regular scenic flights available using either a helicopter or light aircraft. A typical 15-minute Flight of the Angels will include a few circuits over the Falls (clockwise and anticlockwise to ensure everyone gets a good view), followed by a brief foray upstream to spot hippos and elephants along the Upper Zambezi. Longer 30-minute flights involve more laps around the Falls and aerial game-spotting over Zambezi National Park. Helicopter charter flights are also possible, perhaps incorporating an island champagne lunch or a pick-up following a whitewater rafting trip. The photographic potential of the Flight of the Angels is superb. Remember to take plenty of spare film and keep the camera as close to the window as possible to avoid interior reflections spoiling the picture. Keen photographers with a sense of adventure should seriously consider a flight in an ultralight. These small light aircraft, with room for just the pilot and one passenger, have open cockpits allowing the ultimate aerial experience of the Falls. Microlights are similar, but due to the proximity of the propeller, cameras cannot be carried. Instead, the operators will mount a camera on the wing for that special souvenir snapshot.

WHITEWATER RAFTING
Admittedly, the names can be unnerving. Oblivion, Terminator, The Devil’s Toilet Bowl and Gnashing Jaws of Death are just a few of the rapids located in Batoka Gorge downstream of Victoria Falls. Although world renowned, whitewater rafting on this stretch of the Zambezi has been described as ‘extremely difficult, with long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas.’ Obviously, it is not for the faint-hearted. However, with operators adhering to strict safety standards, whitewater rafting has deservedly become one of the Falls’ most popular activities. A typical day’s rafting begins with a land-based briefing and the issuing of lifejackets, helmets and paddles (and wetsuit tops during the colder months between April and August). Rafters then trek down a steep path to the bottom of the gorge where the inflatable rubber rafts are waiting. The prevailing water levels determine the starting point – some rapids may be avoided during dangerous low water periods. Training begins in a calm stretch with highly experienced skippers coaching their crews of eight on the essentials of whitewater rafting. This includes paddling technique, what to do if the raft capsizes and how to get back in again. Usually, this is accompanied by a torrent of ‘raft-speak’ – terms like ‘flips’, ‘high-riding’ and ‘downtime’ may sound technical, but they generally involve being tossed violently from the raft into the kind of water most people have only experienced from the safe side of a washing machine set to fast-rinse. Many of the rapids are graded IV and V (VI is considered commercially impossible). They are separated by long calm stretches, allowing time to contemplate the dramatic gorge scenery. Safety kayakers always shoot the rapids first and wait downstream ready to assist people who inadvertently find themselves taking a swim. Typically, about 24km (15 miles) can be rafted during a day trip, but some operators offer multi-day options, camping overnight on riverside beaches. If rafting sounds too tame, try river-boarding where the mighty Zambezi can be confronted with nothing more than a small float and a pair of flippers. It is an exhilarating experience to surf the rapids’ perpetual breakers, and there is always a back-up raft present if your nerve fails.

JET BOATING
Reaching speeds of over 90km/h (55mph), jet boats also operate in Batoka Gorge, skimming over rapids and spinning on flat water as they career past the sheer walls. There is no doubting the exhilaration factor of these rides, but some may feel that they compromise the natural sights and sounds of Victoria Falls’ gorges.

BUNGEE JUMPING
Spanning no-man’s-land between the border posts of Zambia and Zimbabwe, the Victoria Falls Bridge has become a Mecca to thousands of people in search of the ultimate adrenaline rush. With a drop of 111m (364ft), it is one of the highest bungee jump sites in the world. Registration and safety briefings take place on the Zambian side of the bridge. The maximum weight per jumper is 140kg (309 pounds) and the minimum age is 14. Do not even contemplate jumping if you are pregnant or suffer from high blood pressure, heart conditions, epilepsy, or back or leg injuries. The standard jump is disconcertingly straightforward! You wear a full body harness, an elastic cord is tied around your ankles and then you simply step off the bridge with the words ‘5-4-3-2- 1-Bungee!’ ringing in your ears. Of course, standard jumps have long since been eclipsed by a daredevil range of embellishments. There are now star elevators, shooting stars, back dives and tandems – some of which are self-explanatory, while others are almost beyond belief. For a slower descent into the gorge, abseiling is also available – although even this can be enhanced by a ‘gorge swing’ which involves free-falling off a cliff for 50m (165ft) before being swung like a pendulum into the middle of the chasm.

UPPER ZAMBEZI CANOEING
Although there are a few minor rapids, activities upstream of the Falls focus on a more sedate appreciation of the scenery and wildlife. Inflatable two-person canoes are used for a typical day’s paddling covering about 25km (15 miles) of the Upper Zambezi. It is an excellent opportunity to drift silently past the diverse wildlife of the Zambezi National Park. Elephant, giraffe, waterbuck and other varieties of antelope often come down to the water’s edge to drink. The bird life is equally prolific. Bee-eaters excavate nesting colonies in the sandy river banks, while herons, kingfishers, hamerkops, African fish eagles and other water-loving species are frequently sighted. Hippos are common too, but they tend to be territorial and your guides will know how to avoid them. A two- or three-day canoe trip is the perfect way to explore the Upper Zambezi and visit many of its islands. Several lodges on the Zambian side of the river offer luxurious accommodation, while some islands, like Sindabezi, have simple thatched camps and offer outstanding birdwatching opportunities.

RIVER CRUISES
Various vessels operate cruises on the Upper Zambezi River. The popular sundowner option (commonly referred to as the ‘booze cruise’) usually lasts around three hours. Other cruises coincide with breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea and, although they offer a less intimate wildlife experience than canoeing, there is still a good chance of spotting common species like hippos and crocodiles. Fishing trips can be arranged on the Upper Zambezi and in Batoka Gorge below the Falls. The best time for catching tiger fish is August to March.

TRAIN RIDES
Departing from Livingstone Station, the Victoria Falls Safari Express steam train takes passengers on the short run to Victoria Falls Bridge where it pauses for a photo opportunity before returning again.

ELEPHANT RIDING
African elephants have been trained to carry tourists on short safaris. As well as teaching you about the elephants’ behaviour and conservation issues, these unusual safaris offer a good chance of spotting birds and other wildlife.

HORSE RIDING
Horse-riding safaris operate on both sides of the river. Novices can learn the basics during half-day sessions, while the more experienced riders can set off into the bush on overnight safari adventures.

QUAD BIKING
An excellent way in which to explore the spectacular landscape around Livingstone and the Batoka Gorge, allterrain quad bikes are suitable for both novice and experienced riders.

National Parks

There are three national parks in the immediate vicinity of Victoria Falls – Mosi-oa-Tunya in Zambia and both the Zambezi and Victoria Falls national parks in Zimbabwe. Most, if not all, visitors experience Victoria Falls National Park with its incredible close-up views of the cataracts. Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park encloses the eastern section of the Falls and several of the gorges downstream, but this reserve, together with Zambezi National Park, also offers excellent game-viewing along the Upper Zambezi and adjacent land.

Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park
Covering 67km2 (26 sq miles), only a small section of Mosi-oa-Tunya is fenced off into a game park. Nevertheless, it is well worth a visit, having to go on your own or going on an organized safari. One of the highlights include five white rhino which are probably found nowhere else in Zambia and are usually being trailed by their personal guard. The predominant vegetation is mopane forest with small areas of teak and miombo woodland. Giraffe, eland, wildebeest, impala, warthog, baboon and vervet monkey are all commonly seen – as are elephant which migrate across the Zambezi during the dry season.

Zambezi National Park
With 40km (25 miles) of river frontage, Zambezi National Park extends south in a wildlife-rich mosaic of mopane forest and savanna. The park covers an area of 348km2 (216 sq miles) and supports large numbers of elephant, buffalo, zebra and giraffe, as well as some magnificent sable antelope. Predators, such as lion and African wild dog, are also present. In addition to canoe trips on the Zambezi River, wildlife-watching in the park is possible on game drives operating from the town of Victoria Falls.

Livingstone and Vic Falls Towns

LIVINGSTONE
Located just 10km (6 miles) north of Victoria Falls, Livingstone is Zambia’s most popular tourist centre. A compact town, centred around the railway line and Mosioa- Tunya Road, Livingstone is experiencing a boom in tourism and now offers a great variety of places to stay. The town has lots of historical and cultural interest and is also the gateway to prime stretches of the Upper Zambezi, not to mention unique perspectives of the Falls themselves.

Local Culture
Zambia’s rich cultural heritage can be experienced through art, music, dance and food at the Maramba Cultural Village. Located next to the Livingstone Showgrounds and opened in early 2007, the village consists of an art gallery, nine model villages and an open air theatre with a seating capacity of 450. Tour operators in Livingstone can also arrange visits to the Mukuni Village east of the Falls where a local guide will provide insights into the daily lives of this typical settlement of 7000 people. Each February, the local Leya people make offerings to ancestral spirits whom they believe still dwell in Batoka Gorge. The best local market in Livingstone is Maramba Market which sells everything from fruit and vegetables to local fabrics.

Shopping for Crafts and Curios
Livingstone will satiate even the most ardent souvenirhunter. Not only is there a good range of craft centres and curio stalls, but bargain-seekers will generally find prices much cheaper than in Zimbabwe. Although vendors are fully prepared for bargaining, remember that this is their livelihood – haggle hard, but fairly. Many carvings are made from increasingly rare African hardwoods, so it’s also important to take environmental ethics into consideration. Finally, bear in mind that not everything is produced locally. Some of the curios may come from as far afield as West Africa. If you have the time and tenacity for bartering, look no further than the curio stalls near the Field Museum. Here you will find a kaleidoscope of crafts, from spindly wooden giraffes and malachite chess boards to woven baskets and soapstone paperweights. A similar array of curios can be found at the Curio and Craft Centre in Livingstone’s Mukuni Park. For more relaxed browsing, head to one of the town’s art and craft shops. The Livingstone Museum has a small shop selling good value baskets. More upmarket are Kubu Crafts and African Visions which, in addition to carvings and baskets, stock more unusual items such as jewellery, pottery, furniture and artefacts.

VICTORIA FALLS TOWN
The Zimbabwean town of Victoria Falls is less than 2km (1.25 miles) south of the Zambezi. Unlike Livingstone, it is within easy walking distance of the Falls. A major crossroads for travellers, Victoria Falls has excellent hotels, restaurants, shops and tour operators. Political unrest in Zimbabwe hasn’t helped the town’s tourism – just as Livingstone’s tourism booom has tempted many visitors to the Zambian side of the Falls. There is no denying, however, that Victoria Falls can cater to just about every tourist whim – whether it’s an action-packed day on the river or a game drive in nearby Zambezi National Park. Needless to say, shoppers are well catered for at the Victoria Falls Craft Village on Livingstone Way, as well as the Elephant’s Walk Shopping Complex. No visit to Victoria Falls would be complete without sampling the excellent cuisine of the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. If the formal attire required for dinner in the Livingstone Room is off-putting, try instead the more casual buffet breakfast or their delicious afternoon tea served on the sun terrace.